Yoshimura Exhaust - The History of Yoshimura and Why You Should Buy One

How Yoshimura Began

Hideo "Pops" Yoshimura founded "Yoshimura", in 1955 in Japan. Pops was trained as an airplane mechanic during WWII. Pops Yoshimura was a genius with modifying planes, cars, and all manner of other combustion engine powered vehicles, but motorcycles were his true love.

While working as an aircraft mechanic Pops Yoshimura developed a large and well-earned reputation for building power for motorcycles. Customers flocked to Yoshimura looking for a competitive edge and Yoshimura delivered it. The company was a great success, but Pops was much more ambitious.

Yoshimura was Heavily Involved in Racing from the Beginning

Pops Yoshimura had a goal of racing at the Daytona 200. In 1971 Pops augmented to Yoshimura Japan by opening Yoshimura Research and Development of America, Inc. in Los Angeles, CA.

Yoshimura began building engines, but selling exhaust pipes quickly became the primary focus of the business. An engine's ability to make horsepower is largely determined by how quickly it can exhaust spent gasses. From the beginning, the first piece to be modified was the motorcycle's exhaust.

In 1976, the first official AMA Superbike series was established and the first race was Daytona. The Daytona 200 was reserved for two-stroke 500cc engine motorcycles and this was a great chance for Pops to showcase his magic.

Yoshimura initially focused its efforts with Kawasaki motorcycles and a racer named Wes Cooley. Wes had an unorthodox style of racing. The 1976 KZ 1000 didn't handle very well, but with Yoshimura's modifications it had more than enough power, so Wes Cooley employed a technique of a two wheel power slide and muscled his way out of turns. The Yoshimura team finished 4th place that year.

Yoshimura Switches from Kawasaki to Suzuki and Finally has Racing Success

In 1977, Yoshimura moved one step closer to victory with a third place finish. In 1978, Yoshimura switched from Kawasaki to Suzuki and had positive results. The new Suzukis made much more power and handling was much greater than the Kawasakis. Steve McLaughlin won the Daytona Superbike race on a Yoshimura built Suzuki GS1000.

In 1979, Team Yoshimura racers Ron Pierce, Wes Cooley and Dave Emde finished in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd at Daytona. This unbelievable victory was the first time an entire race team swept the podium in an AMA Superbike race. From 1978 through 1981, Yoshimura and Suzuki won four straight Daytona Superbike races. This had never been done before and the legend continued growing. Wes was successful in the series and won the 1979 and 1980 AMA Superbike titles.

Yoshimura's ground-breaking engine building methods and racing success quickly built a larger following. All of this was going on while the top Japanese manufacturers created lighter, high-powered sportbikes. Yoshimura was in the right place at the right time and was growing at a rapid pace.

Yoshimura uses Advanced Racing Technology to Make Some of the Finest Exhausts in the Market Today

Yoshimura has invested millions of dollars to keep up with advancing exhaust technology. CNC cut-off saws cut pipe-work to precise lengths while multi-level CNC tube benders shape pipes to exact specifications. Yoshimura also uses computer-controlled robot welding machines for accuracy.


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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=William_R._Thompson

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Sport Bike Cornering Technique

Unless you’re a drag racer, corners are what bikes are all about. They’re the holy grail and the bread and butter of biking, but few riders really understand them in depth. You can tell the ones who do - they’re faster, safer and have more fun than the unenlightened.

Every corner has its own unique nuances and subtleties, but every corner in the world can be broken down into three main parts - Entry, Apex and Exit. How you deal with each one is important, but how you put them together is crucial - you’re looking for a smooth transition between each part of the bend.

1. Entry
This can be subdivided further into Approach and Turn-in. The Approach is where you get down to a speed and gear that seems about right, and position yourself in the best place to tackle the bend. That means giving yourself the best visibililty, so for a left hand bend you’ll be as far over to the right as is practical, and for a righthander you’ll be as far over to the left. On a racetrack you can use the whole width of the tarmac but real roads have oncoming traffic, potholes, gutters and white lines which will mean you have to modify your line to suit.

The closer you get to the turn, the more you’re looking for your turn-in point. This is the point at which you really make the bike steer, rather than just following the road - on a very long or tight curve you might get three-quarters of the way round the bend before you actually turn in.
The way to spot the turn-in point is to know where the exit is, then draw the shortest practical line between where you are and that apex point. On a racetrack you know where the exit is because you have as many laps as you like to learn it, so you can work out a turn-in point in advance. On the road, you have to actually see the exit before you can identify the apex, which means you end up going deeper into the corner before you turn in.

2. Apex
This is the heart of the bend, where you’ll be leant over further than anywhere else in the bend it’s the balance point between the way in and the way out. You hear racers talk about hitting an apex, and they’ll mean hitting it consistently within an inch or so, lap after lap. On the road accuracy is still important, otherwise you’re wasting time. On a left hand bend the apex will be as far over to the right as it’s practical and safe to go, on the right it’ll be as far over to the left.

3. Exit
From the moment you hit the exit, you should be concentrating on the exit, and concentrating on getting there as fast as possible. That means getting the power down, which means balancing available tyre grip with increasing throttle. That’s a balance that changes from corner to corner and from bike to bike, but the crucial thing is to feed the throttle in firmly and gently, not just crack it on full in one go. The further you’re leant over, the less throttle you can apply, but as you gradually ease the bike upright you can apply correspondingly more throttle, until by the time you’re halfway back up to upright again you’ll probably be close to full throttle, powering out of the bend and on towards the next one.

for more info you can visit this thread at  http://www.cbr250rmalaysia.com/Thread-Sport-Bike-Cornering-Technique

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How to reset an ECU unit on CBR250r

Follow step below
remove ecu by removing righ side fairing.
unplug ecu and wait 5 minutes.
plug ecu back in and turn engine on for 5 minutes. rev engine to redline a few times
locate wire loom running to tail light
with a piece of wire jump the connection between the blue and green wires
with the wires still jumped turn on the ingnition. wait 5 seconds then remove the wire you used to jump the connection
your check engine light should nowbe on (solid)
turn ingnition off
locate and remove coolant sensor. located above engine under the seat
jump the blue/yellow and green/white wire
with the wires still jumped turn the ignition on for 10 seconds. the check engine light should now be flashing
with the ignition still on plug the coolant sensor back in
turn igniton off
turn ignition back on and start engine. check engine light should come on then go off as it normally does. rev engine to red line a few times.
turn engine off.the ecu is now reset.

P/s: for the best result,reset your ECU before you start a long journey on the highway.

here is the another step to reset your ecu

http://www.cbr250rmalaysia.com/showthread.php?tid=57

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